1. Riccardo Tisci’s world tour continued
With his spring/summer 2016 show already behind him, the Givenchy creative director found himself with some free time to hit the fashion week circuit. In Milan, he showed up at Prada and Versace’s shows (at the latter,posing for pictures with his friend Naomi Campbell). And, as if his New York fete was not enough, he threw another party in Milan featuring a performance by Nicki Minaj. We wonder what Paris will bring.
2. Donatella Versace changed her tune
Donatella Versace branched out this season. Not only did she upgrade her show venue (trading in her old via Gesu office for a large expo space that held twice as many people), but the collection got an upgrade, too. There were still her signature, sexed-up rock n’ roll dresses — but she also added several options for women’s everyday lives. She told reporters that she designed the collection thinking of a woman’s many outfit needs — adding that she wanted women “not to be fragile, to be fighters.” Many showgoers left the venue thinking, Bravo, Versace.
3. Ferragamo was a standout
The Ferragamo show was a highlight of the week: models wore slicked back ponytails, pearl drop earrings, ruffled tops and knit capes over knit dresses. All together, it felt completely fresh.
4. Dolce & Gabbana embraced the selfie
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana often look to their homeland as a source of inspiration in their collections. This season was no different: showgoers entered the venue to find a set inspired by an Italian cafe and market place. Four large screens over the audience read “Selfie.” When the show began, models walked down the runway taking pictures of themselves that were immediately projected onto the large screens. The result was playful, funny — and, frankly, unlike any other show this week.
photo: beach bridesmaid dresses
5. Pajamas for the win
Exhausted showgoers left Milan with long wish lists and full bellies — and fantasies of luxuriating in For Restless Sleepers’s spring 2016 collection of loungewear. The punchy pajama separates in graphic silks are exactly the stuff a fashionable life — and sweet dreams — are made of.
6. Moschino brought an American car wash to Milan
Since Jeremy Scott took helm at Moschino, each of his shows have managed to outdo the last. This season, the designer sent out an invitation emblazoned with the Moschino logo and a hard hat — leading guests to guess at the theme of the spring collection. When they entered the venue, they found a space decked out like a car wash — complete with brushes and bubbles. Models in ‘50s-inspired party dresses and yellow feather dresses sashayed (and in some cases danced) down the runway. Wearable? Maybe for some. But it was a joy to see fashion that does not take itself too seriously.
7. Models went short, short, short
There wasn’t a predominate hair style on the runway — it was more a lack thereof. A few of the new models debuting on the runway this season made the case for serious buzz cuts. Model Ruth Bell — in all her peach fuzz glory — opened Max Mara, and Giulia and Camilla Venturini, twin sisters with shaved heads, showed up at Tod’s.
8. All roads led to the Prada Foundation (and the Marchesi Pasticceria)
It seemed that if any editors had a free moment in Milan there were two places you could find them: the Fondazione Prada or the Pasticceria Marchesi, a pastry shop on Via Monte Napoleone also designed by Prada. Although the Fondazione opened in May, it was the first time many international editors had visited, which meant Instagram was clogged with pictures of the museum’s gold exterior, the Damien Hirst fish tank and the Wes Anderson designed cafe, Bar Luce. And at Marchesi, painted in signature Prada green, jars of colorful candy that lined the shelves brought out the childhood delight (and, again, an Instagram frenzy) in all.
9. Everybody is wearing Gucci
Gucci’s new creative director Alessandro Michele is only three seasons in — but already the Gucci revolution is in full force. Front rows were filled with his fur-lined slippers, floral pleated dresses, ruffled blouses and slouchy suits with “GG” logo belts. And, with a newly designed flagship store on Via Montenapoleone, the new Gucci addicts have a place to get their fix.
10. There were a lot of exciting debuts
This season, three new designers took the helms of old houses establishing, on the heels of Alessandro Michele, a new energy in Milanese fashion. Peter Dundas debuted at Roberto Cavalli, MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti took over at Pucci and Arthur Arbesser showed his first collection at Iceberg. It’s still too early to tell how they’ll fare — but it was thrilling to see new talent in Milan.
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