Heads up: while no one has still quite cracked the formula for a guaranteed best seller, these young designers reveal to Vogue what’s worked so far.
Creating that perfect wardrobe staple has proved to be a boon for some designers - after all, don't we all want that ideal item that'll solve all our sartorial problems and go with everything in our closet? For Kahlo, their sell-out piece of the season was their lambskin leather skirt, the ‘Esther’. “It’s timeless and trans-seasonal,” says Fay Ogunbadejo and Rachelle Sinclair, the designer duo behind the brand. “It’s a classic piece and suits all figures.” New Zealand designer Georgia Alice agrees, citing her ‘The Sea King’ oversized coat as being the stellar performer of her autumn/winter collection (a quick Google and you can see it sold out pretty much everywhere online). “It’s oversized and comfy,” explains Alice. “And, it’s in the perfect shade of grey marle.”
Pictures: plus size formal dresses
But for other designers, it has been the more trend-driven items that have gained traction. Ainsley Hansen of Hansen and Gretel spotlighted her off-the-shoulder silk “Kate” top in white. “I think it’s largely due to the shape being so on trend right now,” she explains. “It’s a style that can be dressed up for an occasion or worn with denim shorts. Versatility is something that our buyers really gravitate towards these days.”
Streetstyle have also had an effect on drawing attention to certain pieces and designers. Hansen singles out the streetstyle photographer Le 21ème, whose photographs during Australian Fashion Week helped draw attention to her label, like one of model Ash Walker in the ‘Jira’ lace panel dress in nude.
Bloggers still have clout, too. “When Leandra Medine wore the Georgia Alice denim peplum, it certainly sparked huge interest in the brand,” continues Alice, who admits that for the most part, customers are still drawn to the more wearable pieces in her collections. And for Kaylene Miller, a piece from her graduate collection (designed as a student at The Fashion Design Studio at Ultimo TAFE) garnered interest when worn by Vogue Spy Style bloggerCarmen Hamilton of The Chronicles of Her. “I was flooded with enquiries, but I had to explain that there was only one hand-knitted dress in existence,” she said. “Months later the enquiries kept coming in and I realised there was an opportunity.” While finding it difficult to locate a knitwear manufacturer to produce the piece without compromising on design quality, Miller sought out a domestic knitting machine and produced the pieces herself. “It has opened up a direct dialogue with customers and the feedback from the women who wear my clothes is invaluable.”
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